Sicily was two weeks of pure chaos in the best possible way. I travelled around the island with my cousin, backpacking from place to place, staying in cheap hostels, meeting new people, eating a ridiculous amount of pasta and figuring out public transport as we went.
We mainly stayed in Palermo and Taormina, but also visited places including Catania and Messina. There were long train rides, delayed or confusing connections, spontaneous plans and plenty of moments that only really make sense when you’re actually there. At one point, even a rat appearing on a terrace somehow became part of the story.
But beyond all the chaos, Sicily was full of sunshine, incredible food, beautiful towns and that relaxed Mediterranean feeling where nobody seems to be in much of a hurry.
So if you’re planning a trip to Sicily, this guide covers everything I learned from my own two-week backpacking trip, including where to stay, how to get around Sicily, which places I would prioritise, how long to stay, what to eat and some honest tips for planning your own trip.
Where to stay in Sicily
Where you stay in Sicily really depends on your itinerary. If you want to travel around the island, I would recommend choosing a few different bases rather than staying in one place and constantly travelling back and forth.
During my trip, I stayed in Palermo and Taormina, both in hostels.
Ostello Bello Palermo
Type: Hostel
Location: Central Palermo
Vibe: Very social and backpacker-friendly
Price: Around €19 per night when I stayed
This was easily one of my favourite hostels in Sicily and one I would 100% recommend, especially if you’re travelling solo or want to meet people.
The atmosphere was incredibly social, the common areas made it really easy to meet other travellers and the location was great for exploring Palermo. They also had free vegetables and pasta that you could cook yourself, which is obviously very welcome when you’re backpacking on a budget.
There is also now a small pool, which is a pretty great addition when you’re dealing with Sicilian summer temperatures.
I actually recommended Ostello Bello to other people after my trip, and the people I know who stayed there were all really happy with it too.
If you want a social hostel in Palermo, this would be one of my first choices.
If you’re backpacking around Italy and looking for more hostel recommendations, I’ve also put together my Italy Hostel Reviews based on my own experiences.

Homstel Taormina
Type: Hostel
Location: Outside the main centre with beautiful views
Vibe: Small and a little chaotic
Price: Budget
The location itself was beautiful, and Taormina is a place where I would definitely recommend staying for a few nights.
However, I personally wouldn’t recommend this particular hostel. My experience was quite mixed: the facilities felt outdated, organisation wasn’t always great and there were a few things that made me feel less comfortable than I would have liked.
The staff were friendly, but I wouldn’t personally stay here again.
My recommendation: stay in Taormina if you want to experience the area, but look for another accommodation option.
If you’re not a hostel person at all, there are plenty of hotels, apartments and other accommodation options around Taormina and Palermo.
For Palermo, I would also look around the harbour / central historic centre area depending on what kind of atmosphere you’re after. For Taormina, staying closer to the historic centre will make it easier to walk around and enjoy the town in the evenings.
Homstel Taormina
- Type: Hostel
- Location: Nice views, slightly outside
- Vibe: Small, but a bit chaotic
- Price: Budget
- Notes: Budget option with mixed experience. The location has beautiful views, however the overall stay felt chaotic. Facilities were outdated, and small things like safety and organisation were not ideal. Staff was friendly, but I personally would not stay here again.
Where Should You Fly Into Sicily?
You can make your itinerary work from either side of the island.
Fly into Palermo if you want to start in western Sicily and work your way east.
This is the option I would choose if Palermo is high on your list. You can spend a few days exploring the city without a car, then rent one afterwards if you want to explore more of western and eastern Sicily.
Fly into Catania if you want to start in eastern Sicily and travel west.
This works particularly well if you want to focus on Taormina, Catania and Mount Etna before continuing towards Palermo.
You could also combine the two: fly into Palermo, explore western Sicily, rent a car and gradually make your way east before dropping it off in Catania.
Palermo Airport is connected to the city by train, so you don’t necessarily need to rent a car as soon as you land.
How to Get Around Sicily
This was probably the biggest lesson I learned from backpacking around Sicily.
Yes, you can travel around Sicily by public transport. We did it.
But if you want to see a lot of the island in a relatively short amount of time, renting a car will make your life much easier.
Sicily has trains and buses connecting many of the main destinations, but connections aren’t always as straightforward as you might expect. Timetables can change, journeys can take longer than expected and some places are much easier to reach with your own transport.
The railway network connects many important destinations, including Palermo, Cefalù, Messina, Taormina and Catania, while train-and-bus connections can also help you reach places that aren’t directly served by rail.
Travelling Sicily by Public Transport
If you’re backpacking on a budget, travelling by train and bus is definitely possible.
We did exactly that, and it worked for us because we weren’t trying to see absolutely everything.
But be prepared for long travel days.
One of our journeys from Palermo towards Taormina took almost 8 hours, with changes and stops that made the journey feel much longer than expected.
So my biggest public transport tip is:
Don’t plan your Sicily itinerary too tightly.
Leave yourself some flexibility and always check the latest timetable before travelling. Train services and replacement buses can change because of maintenance and infrastructure works.
Travelling Sicily by Car
If you have the budget, I would personally consider renting a car for at least part of your trip.
This gives you much more freedom to visit smaller coastal towns and places that aren’t as convenient by public transport.
A road trip could include places such as:
- Palermo
- Tonnara di Scopello
- Terrasini
- Cefalù
- Messina
- Taormina
- Catania
- Syracuse
You don’t have to visit all of them, and I wouldn’t recommend trying to squeeze everything in just because you can.
Compare Car Rental Options
If you’re planning to rent a car in Sicily, it’s worth comparing prices before booking. Prices can vary depending on your pick-up location, dates and the type of car you need.
Car rental options in Sicily:
- Compare car rentals in Palermo
- Compare car rentals in Catania
- Compare car rentals at Palermo Airport
- Compare car rentals at Catania Airport
For a full Sicily road trip, I would also compare the pick-up and drop-off locations carefully. You don’t necessarily have to return the car to the same place, which can be useful if you’re flying into Palermo and leaving from Catania, or the other way around.
How Long Do You Need in Sicily?
This really depends on what kind of trip you’re planning.
For a proper trip around different parts of the island, I would recommend at least 10 days.
Two weeks is even better because Sicily is big and there is a lot to see.
If you’re not sure which trip length makes sense for you, I’ve put together a full guide to how many days to spend in Sicily, including different itineraries from 3 days to 2 weeks.
3–4 Days in Sicily
Perfect if you want a short city break.
I would choose Palermo or Catania rather than trying to travel around the entire island.
5–7 Days in Sicily
You can combine a city with one or two nearby destinations.
For example:
Palermo + Cefalù
or
Catania + Taormina
10 Days in Sicily
This is the minimum I would personally recommend if your goal is to travel around Sicily rather than just visit one city.
You can combine several destinations without spending your entire holiday travelling.
2 Weeks in Sicily
This gives you much more breathing room.
You can combine Palermo with destinations on the west coast and then continue towards Messina, Taormina and Catania on the east coast.
This was roughly the amount of time I had, and it gave me a good taste of different parts of Sicily without trying to see absolutely everything.
Sicily Itinerary Ideas
You definitely don’t need to follow one exact Sicily itinerary. It depends on whether you’re travelling by car or public transport and what you actually want to see.
3–4 Days: Palermo
Palermo – 3 or 4 nights
Use Palermo as your base and explore the city, markets, food scene and nearby beaches.
You could also take a day trip to Cefalù.
7 Days: Palermo + Taormina
Palermo – 3 days
Taormina – 3 days
Travel day – 1 day
This gives you two completely different sides of Sicily without trying to squeeze in too many destinations.
10 Days: Western + Eastern Sicily
Palermo – 3 days
Cefalù / surrounding area – 1 day
Messina – 1 day
Taormina – 2 days
Catania – 2 days
Travel / flexibility – 1 day
You could do this by public transport, although a car would make the route considerably easier.
2 Weeks: Slow Sicily Backpacking Trip
With two weeks, you can slow things down and add places such as Tonnara di Scopello, Terrasini, Syracuse or Giardini Naxos depending on your interests.
And honestly, you don’t have to see every single city.
I visited Palermo, Taormina, Messina and Catania, and I found that some of the cities had a similar overall feel. Taormina was my personal favourite and the place I found the prettiest, so if you’re short on time, don’t feel like you have to tick every city off your list.
Places I Visited
These are the main places I personally visited during my Sicily trip.
You don’t need to visit all of them. Sicily is big, and trying to see everything can easily turn your holiday into one long transport day.
Palermo
Palermo was honestly one of the biggest surprises of the trip.
It’s affordable, lively, chaotic in the best possible way and full of energy. I loved that you can combine city exploring with beach days and a very social backpacker atmosphere.
My favourite areas in Palermo
La Vucciria Market
A market during the day that turns into a lively nightlife area in the evening.
Ballarò Market
One of the places where you really get that chaotic, local Palermo feeling.
Around Via Napoli
A great area for restaurants, drinks and atmosphere.
Related articles:
Palermo is also the place where I would happily spend several days without feeling like I had to constantly move on.
Taormina
Taormina was probably my favourite place in Sicily.
It’s beautiful, perched on the mountainside with incredible views over the coast, and it has that very picturesque Italian atmosphere.
It’s also relatively small, so you don’t necessarily need a full week here. A few days is enough to explore the main town and surrounding area.
One of my absolute highlights was going to Castelmola for sunset.

My highlight
Castelmola at sunset
The views are genuinely breathtaking, and this was one of my favourite moments of the trip.

Related articles
- Read my full Taormina Travel Guide
- 10 Best Things to Do in Taormina
- Get my Taormina Google Map for €1
Messina
Messina was another stop on our trip and is particularly useful if you’re travelling between Palermo and eastern Sicily.
It’s very different from Taormina. While Taormina is all about the views, historic streets and postcard scenery, Messina feels much more like a working Sicilian city.
If you already have limited time, I wouldn’t prioritise Messina over Taormina based on my own experience. But if you’re travelling through the area anyway, it can be an interesting stop and a good way to experience a less touristy side of eastern Sicily.
The train route between Messina and Catania also makes it a practical part of an eastern Sicily itinerary.

Catania
Catania is another lively Sicilian city, located on the eastern side of the island and close to Mount Etna.
Compared with Taormina, I found Catania much more urban and chaotic. It’s a good option if you want a city with plenty of restaurants, bars and nightlife, or if you’re using it as a base for exploring eastern Sicily.
It’s also well connected by rail to places including Taormina and Messina, which makes it useful if you’re travelling without a car.
If you have more time in eastern Sicily, you can also use Catania as a base for exploring places around Mount Etna.
If you’re deciding when to visit, I’ve also written about the best time to visit Sicily, including the weather and crowds throughout the year.
Sicilian Food & Drinks
Sicily is absolutely the kind of place where you should plan your days around food.
Or at least that’s what we did.

Drinks
My go-to Sicilian drinks were:
- Aperol Spritz
- Hugo Spritz
- Limoncello Spritz
And in Palermo, we found drinks for around €4, which made it very easy to justify having another one.
Must-Try Sicilian Food
Arancini
My absolute favourite.
Arancini are deep-fried rice balls filled with things like ragù, cheese, peas or other fillings, covered in breadcrumbs and fried until crispy. They’re one of Sicily’s most iconic street foods. You might also see them called arancine, especially in western Sicily, both names are used depending on where you are.
They’re cheap, filling and perfect when you’re backpacking and don’t want to spend much money on lunch. I genuinely had them multiple times during my trip.
Cannoli
Cannoli are crispy, tube-shaped pastry shells filled with sweet ricotta cream, usually finished with things like pistachios, chocolate or candied fruit.
They’re one of those Sicilian foods you really should try at least once. If you see them being filled fresh to order, even better, the shell stays properly crispy.

Granita
Granita is a semi-frozen Sicilian dessert made with water, sugar and different flavours, such as lemon, almond, pistachio, coffee or fruit. It’s refreshing, slightly icy and perfect for a hot day.
And don’t skip the brioche. In Sicily, especially in the east, granita is traditionally served with a soft brioche, and honestly, it makes the combination even better.
Fresh Seafood
If you like seafood, you’re in the right place. You’ll find plenty of fresh fish and seafood throughout Sicily.
Is Sicily Good for Backpacking?
Yes, especially if you enjoy a little chaos.
Sicily worked really well for me as a backpacking destination because hostels made it easy to meet people, food was relatively affordable and there are plenty of destinations you can connect by train or bus.
The biggest challenge is transportation.
If you’re happy to travel slowly and don’t mind the occasional delay or complicated connection, public transport can work.
If you’re trying to see half the island in ten days, I would seriously consider renting a car.
And if you’re travelling solo, staying in social hostels can make a huge difference.
If you’re still deciding whether Sicily belongs on your itinerary at all, I’ve also shared my honest opinion on whether Sicily is worth visiting after spending two weeks travelling around the island.

Sicily Travel Tips
A few things I learned during my own trip:
Don’t plan every minute
Sicily doesn’t always work perfectly according to your Google Calendar.
Leave some room for delays, spontaneous plans and changing your mind.
Check transport before you leave
Especially if you’re travelling by public transport, check your connection before heading to the station or bus stop. Services and schedules can change.
Consider a car
You don’t need one for Palermo, and you can absolutely backpack around Sicily without one.
But if you want to explore smaller towns and beaches, a car gives you much more freedom.
Don’t try to see everything
This is probably the biggest tip I’d give you.
Sicily is too big to properly experience every destination in one short trip.
Pick a few places and actually enjoy them.
Ask locals and hostel staff
Some of my best recommendations came from people we met along the way.
Be sensible at night
Sicily is generally a very social and lively destination, but like anywhere else, stay aware of your surroundings. If an area feels uncomfortable late at night, don’t wander around alone just because Google Maps says it’s the fastest route.
Final Thoughts
Sicily surprised me in the best possible way.
Palermo was much more fun and lively than I expected, Taormina was absolutely beautiful and Catania and Messina gave me a different perspective on the island.
I wouldn’t say you need to visit every city. In fact, I think it’s better to choose a few places and actually enjoy them.
My biggest lesson from this trip was that travelling around Sicily by public transport is possible, but if you have a short amount of time and want to explore more remote places, a rental car will give you much more freedom.
And honestly, some of the delays, chaotic travel days, unexpected plans and completely random moments ended up being exactly what made the trip so memorable.
If you’re planning a Sicily trip, I hope these guides help you figure out where to go, how to get around and what is actually worth your time, while still leaving you enough room for a little bit of your own Sicilian chaos.
Want to know how Sicily compares with the other places I’ve visited in Italy? Read my Italy Travel Ratings: My Honest Experience.
Planning Your Trip to Italy?
Planning a trip to Italy can be surprisingly difficult, especially when you’re choosing between huge historic cities, beautiful coastlines, charming smaller towns, mountains, lakes and islands.
That’s why I’ve created my Italy Travel Guide, where I share destination guides, things to do, local tips and my personal experiences from travelling around Italy.
→ START HERE: Italy Travel Guides
OR
START BY AREA
→ Northern Italy Travel guide
→ Rome Travel guide
→ Sicily Travel guide
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- How Many Days in Sicily Do You Need? Sicily Itineraries for 3 Days to 2 Weeks
- How to Get Around Sicily: Car, Train or Bus?
- Best Time to Visit Sicily: When Should You Go?
- Is Sicily Safe for Solo Female Travel? My Honest Experience
- Is Sicily Worth Visiting? My Honest Opinion After 2 Weeks
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Frequently Asked Questions About Sicily
How many days do you need in Sicily?
I recommend at least 10 days if you want to see different parts of Sicily without rushing. With two weeks, you have more time to combine cities, beaches and smaller towns. If you’re only visiting somewhere like Palermo, a few days can be enough.
Is Sicily easy to travel around without a car?
Yes, you can travel around Sicily by train and bus, and I personally did my entire trip by public transport. However, journeys can sometimes take much longer than expected and connections aren’t always straightforward. If you want to see a lot of Sicily in a short amount of time, renting a car can make your trip much easier.
Is Sicily good for backpacking?
Absolutely. Sicily can work really well for backpackers, especially if you stay in hostels and use public transport. Hostels also make it easy to meet other travellers, which was one of my favourite parts of backpacking around Palermo.
What are the best places to visit in Sicily?
That really depends on what you’re looking for. Palermo is great for food, nightlife and a lively atmosphere, while Taormina is known for its beautiful streets, views and coastal setting. Catania, Messina and smaller coastal towns can also be worth adding to your itinerary. You definitely don’t need to visit every major city to have a great trip.
Should you rent a car in Sicily?
If you want to explore lots of Sicily, I would consider renting a car. A car gives you more flexibility to visit smaller towns, beaches and places that are less convenient by public transport. If you’re mainly staying in cities such as Palermo, you can easily manage without one.
What food should you try in Sicily?
Some of the Sicilian foods I would definitely try are arancini, cannoli and granita with brioche. Sicily is also known for fresh seafood, pasta and plenty of affordable food options, which makes it a great destination for food-loving backpackers.
Is Palermo or Catania better for a Sicily trip?
You don’t necessarily have to choose one. Both can work as starting points for exploring Sicily. Palermo is particularly convenient if you want to explore western Sicily, while Catania is a useful base for eastern Sicily, including Taormina and Mount Etna.
Is Taormina worth visiting?
Yes, I personally loved Taormina and found it to be one of the nicest places I visited in Sicily. It is beautiful and there is plenty to see and do, although it can be more expensive than other parts of Sicily. Even if you only have a short amount of time, I think it’s worth considering.
Can you visit Sicily on a budget?
Yes. Sicily can be travelled on a relatively modest budget, especially if you stay in hostels, use public transport and eat local food. Street food such as arancini can also make for a very cheap and filling meal.
Is Sicily good for solo travellers?
Yes. I travelled around Sicily with my cousin, but staying in hostels made it very easy to meet other travellers, especially in Palermo. If you’re travelling alone, choosing a social hostel can make a big difference.
What should you know before travelling to Sicily?
The biggest thing I learned is to leave some flexibility in your itinerary. Public transport can take longer than expected, plans can change and travelling around the island isn’t always as straightforward as it looks on a map. Don’t try to squeeze every destination into one trip, Sicily is much more enjoyable when you leave yourself some room to slow down and enjoy it.