Tasmania: Hobart, Waterfalls & Maria Island (Aus Part 9)

Introduction

After our east coast adventure, we made it back to Hobart. Tasmania was still full of surprises: long drives across the island, unpredictable weather, spontaneous camping, and small towns tucked away in the wilderness. This part of the trip became more about the journey itself than the destinations, long stretches on the road, sleeping in the car, and discovering hidden corners of the island.


Main adventures

Day 1: Hobart & BBQ with Gary

Two days after arriving back in Hobart, we had a barbecue planned with Gary, a man my grandmother knew. It felt like a piece of home in the middle of our roadtrip chaos.

We arrived around 4 PM, and the weather was perfect. We checked into a huge hotel in Hobart. On paper, it was nice and clean, but the shared lounge was a little awkward, everyone sitting separately, trying not to disturb each other. After a quick run to the store for some chips, we went to meet Gary.

I expected him to live on a big farm, but instead his house was small yet cozy. The evening was simple but lovely: chatting, having a BBQ, and enjoying a relaxed meal together. I have to admit that sometimes my attention drifted a little during the conversations, but luckily Mara always did her best to keep listening carefully and respond to Gary.


Day 2: Mount Wellington & Surroundings

The next morning, we set out to explore the area around Hobart.

  • Mount Wellington: We drove all the way to the summit. The views were stunning, Hobart, the Derwent River, and surrounding hills stretched out beneath us. Even with a few clouds, it felt like the whole city belonged to us.
  • Battery Point, Sandy Bay, Richmond: Small villages with historic charm, although they didn’t blow us away. Walking their streets was relaxing, though.

Later that evening, we returned to our hotel, prepped some meals for the next day, and took a short evening stroll along Hobart Harbor. It was quiet, with just a few people around. Some locals splashed rocks near the docks with bright light, it was silly, but unexpectedly magical, as the water glowed from the bioluminescent algae.


Day 3: Mount Field National Park & Lake Gordon

Early the next day, we drove to Mount Field National Park.

  • Russell Falls & Horseshoe Falls: Both were breathtaking. The forest was dense and lush, and the waterfalls themselves were perfect for photography.
  • Lake Gordon: About a 2–2.5 hour drive west from Mount Field National Park along a winding road through Tasmania’s rugged wilderness, the lake was dramatic and vast, but to be honest I didn’t find it as impressive in person as I expected, beautiful on its own, but not worth the long detour for me.

That night we slept in the car again. It was supposed to be a campsite, but when we arrived it turned out to be more like a random little lake by the water than an actual campground. Still, it was actually pretty cute.

We parked near the lake, ate some cold pasta that we had cooked the evening before, and continued our little tradition of reading Verity together. Mara kept reading out loud while we sat in the car, slowly working our way through the book like we had been doing on the previous nights.

Those days sleeping in the car really taught us to appreciate the most basic things. Things you normally never think about suddenly felt like luxuries: having water, not just to drink but also to cook or shower, having a fire, a proper way to cook, or even something as simple as chairs to sit on. Since we didn’t have any of those things yet, we slowly started realizing how little you actually need, but also how nice those small comforts can be.

After a long day of exploring, we prepared for another early start.


Day 4: Tasman Peninsula

This day became a true roadtrip adventure. We drove from the east coast back toward Hobart and then onward across the Tasman Peninsula.

  • Stops included Eagle Hawk Neck, a rocky isthmus with beautiful ocean views.
  • Blowhole: Waves crashing into rocks and shooting water through cliffs, classic Tasmania.
  • Tasman’s Arch: Dramatic natural arch in the cliffside.
  • Waterfall Bluff: A 2-hour hike that rewarded us with views over wild cliffs and ocean.

The day was long. The road stretched endlessly, with forests and farms passing by. Sometimes there were no houses, no signs of life, just the car and the road ahead. I even napped briefly during the drive, and we made several small stops along the way to stretch our legs and take a few photos.

Camping that night was interesting. We knew rain was coming, so we set up near the beach on a free campsite. The facilities were very basic, just a water pump and no proper toilets, but the ocean view made it worth it.

While we were sitting there eating, we actually ran into three Australian guys who were about to go surfing. After chatting for a bit they asked if we wanted to join them for a beer afterwards. In the end we didn’t go, partly because we didn’t have any beer ourselves, but also because Mara wasn’t really in the mood and I was a little too shy to go on my own.

It got cold quickly that evening, so we eventually huddled in the car with our sleeping bags, getting ready for what we knew would be a chilly night.


Day 5: Maria Island, Coastal Exploration & Long Drive West

We woke to clear skies and drove toward Maria Island, a small island with scenic trails and wildlife.

  • Colored Rocks: Stunning sandstone cliffs with striking natural colors.
  • Walking & Photography: We took short walks, explored a bit of the wildlife, and captured as many photos as possible. Some people were mountain biking around the island, but it still felt peaceful.

After returning to the mainland, we tried once again to reach Wineglass Bay, but rain and thick clouds completely obscured the view. Disappointed, we eventually decided to move on and continue our drive west.

The road trip that followed was long and intense. For hours it felt like we were the only car on the road, surrounded by dense forests, rolling hills, and the occasional farm in the distance. At one point we passed a car on the side of the road that looked badly crashed, its front completely smashed. For a moment we genuinely thought someone might have had an accident, so we slowed down to check if everything was okay. Luckily there was no one inside, because honestly we wouldn’t have known what to do and the whole situation already made us pretty nervous.

By the time we finally arrived at our motel we were exhausted and hungry. We tried to cook some pasta there, but something about it tasted a bit strange, almost sour. At first we laughed it off and ate it anyway, thinking we had maybe just messed up the cooking.

As it turned out, the pasta was actually bad.

Both Mara and I ended up feeling sick afterwards, which made it very clear that the pasta had definitely not been a great idea. Not exactly the relaxing dinner we had imagined after such a long day of driving.

Still, the motel itself felt like a small luxury after everything. A hot shower and a real bed were more than welcome after all the hours on the road.


Day 6: Montezuma Falls & More Roadtrip

The next morning, after a solid night’s rest, we drove inland to Montezuma Falls, Tasmania’s tallest waterfall.

  • The Hike: a bit challenging, winding through misty rainforest with the sound of rushing water growing louder as we approached. My shoes were actually completely wet because they had broken at the bottom of the trail, and at first I really didn’t feel like continuing. Mara still wanted to go on, and I also didn’t love the idea of sitting in the car for three hours waiting, so in the end I decided to keep going. Looking back, I’m really glad I did, because it turned out to be incredibly beautiful.
  • The Falls: Standing at the base, the waterfall’s full height and the surrounding lush greenery were breathtaking. The mist in the air created a magical, almost otherworldly atmosphere.

This part of the trip highlighted Tasmania’s rugged beauty: remote landscapes, peaceful hikes, and the reward of natural wonders after a long journey. The combination of a challenging drive, unexpected roadside discoveries, and immersive nature made it one of the most memorable segments of our trip.


Tips & Tricks

Things to Do / Places to Visit

  • Mount Wellington: Scenic drive and city panorama.
  • Battery Point, Sandy Bay, Richmond: Quaint historic towns.
  • Hobart Harbor: Evening walks, photography, locals.
  • Mount Field National Park: Russell Falls & Horseshoe Falls, accessible hikes.
  • Lake Gordon: Dramatic Tasmanian lake views.
  • Tasman Peninsula: Eagle Hawk Neck, Blowhole, Tasman’s Arch, Waterfall Bluff (2-hour hike).
  • Maria Island: Hiking trails, Colored Rocks, wildlife spotting.
  • Wineglass Bay: Iconic curved beach, check weather before going.
  • Montezuma Falls: Tallest waterfall in Tasmania, misty rainforest trails.

Other Tips & Tricks

  • Camping: Free campsites exist, but expect minimal facilities. Apps like WikiCamps, CamperMate, and iOverlander help locate sites and water points.
  • Water: Bring extra bottles; many remote campsites have none.
  • Weather: Tasmania changes quickly. Rain can ruin views, sometimes waiting helps, sometimes it doesn’t.
  • Long Drives: Stock up on snacks, music, and podcasts. Be prepared for stretches with no shops or gas stations.
  • Photography: Sunrise, sunset, and cloudy mornings can produce dramatic light for waterfalls and cliffs.
  • Roadtrip Mindset: Embrace unpredictability. Car naps, last-minute camping, and off-route adventures make the trip memorable.

Reflection

This leg of the Tasmania trip was about more than just sights, it was about the journey itself:

  • Long drives from east to west across the island.
  • Sleeping in the car at free campsites, often without water or proper toilets.
  • Unexpected encounters with locals, like Gary or the playful people at Hobart Harbor.
  • Nature in all forms: waterfalls, cliffs, oceans, islands, and forested mountains.
  • Learning to embrace flexibility when plans get rained out or roads are long and empty.

Tasmania remained unpredictable, wild, and breathtaking. The combination of coastal beauty, inland waterfalls, and long stretches of road made this segment a true adventure, one where even the uncomfortable moments, like cold car nights and missed views, became part of the story we’ll never forget.

Wherever I am next, I’m learning that even chaos can feel like a beginning.

Liked this story? Read chapter 10. Because trust me… it didn’t end there.

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